Almost Ready to Fly
Morris the Knife
Instruction Manual
Specifications
Wingspan: 48” 90% built
Wing Area: 750” sq. Extensive Hardware Package
Length:
44” Covered with Ultra
Weight (Approx.): 4lbs
Recommendations
Engine: .32 to .40
Radio: 4 channel Minimum with 5 servos
6 plus channel computer radio is best
Morris Hobbies
Table of Contents
Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………..3
Additional Required Equipment…………………………………………………………………..4
Kit Contents……………………………………………………………………………………….5
Section 1: Assembling the Wing…………………………………………………………………..6
Section 2: Joining the Wing……………………………………………………………………….8
Section 3: Reinforcing the Wing…………………………………………………………………..9
Section 4: Installing the Fuselage………………………………………………………………..10
Section 5: Aligning the Wing and Stab to the Fuselage (Dry)…………………………………..12
Section 6: Gluing the Wing and Horizontal Stab..........................................................................14
Section 7: Installing the Fuel Tank................................................................................................15
Section 8: Installing the Sub-Assemblies ……………………………………………………….16
Section 9: Installing the Wheels to the Landing Gear...................................................................18
Section 10: Installing the Radio.....................................................................................................19
Section 11: Installing the Control Surfaces...................................................................................22
Section 12: Completing the Pull-Pull System................................................................................24
Section 13: Completing the Control Hook-Ups………………………………………………….26
Section 14: Installing the Engine and Balancing...........................................................................27
Section 15: Installing the Throttle Pushrod and Housing..............................................................28
Section 16: Control Throw Recommendations………………………………………………….29
Section 17: Flying……………………………………………………………………………….29
Section 18: Programming Guide…………………………………30?
Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your NEW Morris the Knife (ARF)!
We at Morris Hobbies truly appreciate our customers. We realize that you have a choice when it comes to your purchases. That is why we have worked so hard to bring you the highest quality and finest workmanship available today. With proper engine and radio combination we guarantee this ARF kit will perform just like the planes in our available VHS video tapes.
Don’t worry if your kit has a few wrinkles in the covering, your kit is covered with high quality Ultracote Covering and this is normal, it always takes a few “shrinks” before it is perfect. Simply go over the covering with a heat gun or a heat sealing iron.
Before starting assembly of your new ARF, take a few minutes to take everything out of the box and do a complete inventory by checking off the included PARTS LIST.
After assuring that everything is included in the box, READ THESE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY. Don’t try to save a few minutes by skipping this
step – it will save you time later!
Additional Required Equipment
If you need to make a repair to the covering, this ARF is covered in Ultracoteâ
The colors are White, Deep Pink, Pearl Red and Midnight Blue.
HINT: All surfaces are covered so that the Solid, DARK Surface is on the BOTTOM.
Kit Contents
Airframe Parts
3. Fuselage 4. Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator
5. Rudder
Hardware Package
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· Fuel tank
· Spinner
· Landing gear
· Wheels
· Linkages
· Spars
· Hatches
· Bolts nuts…
Section 1: Assembling the Wing
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Start with the Wing Halves
To locate the openings for the wing servo hatches, hold a wing 1/2 (bottom up) at an angle to a good light. The outline of the opening will be noticeable ½” from the inboard (uncovered) end of the panel and 3” from the trailing edge (back). The opening is 3 ¾” x 4 ¾”. Use one of the supplied servo hatches to get an idea of how big the opening is.
With your SHARP X-Acto knife, carefully cut the covering from corner to corner in an X-pattern (see illustration A) to open up the area. BEFORE you cut away the excess covering from the hatch area, iron the covering down onto the hatch frame. This will prevent the covering from lifting away later on. After ironing, carefully cut away the excess material inside the opening (see illustration B).
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Section 1: Assembling the Wing
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Joining the Wing Halves
Trial fit the two ¼ x ¼ x 8 11/16” basswood wing joiners into the square holes in one of the wing halves. Slide the other panel over the joiners and assure that both panels mate together completely. There should be virtually NO gap between the root ribs when dry fit. If any gap exists, lightly and carefully sand the root ribs until no more gap shows.
(NOTE: Check the wing joiners for straightness. If one or both of the joiners is slightly warped, mark it so that the bow in the joiner is toward the spar. This will assure maximum contact area when the joiners are glued in.)
First, carefully and gently strip (peel) back about a ½ inch of the covering on each wing panel, you will iron this back down after you apply the fiberglass tape.
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Section 2: Joining the Wing
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Using the servo hatch opening for access, liberally coat the aft side of the upper spar plus the adjacent sheeting (approximately ¼”) with medium CA.
Quickly slide a spar joiner fully into the opening and hold it against the spar and wing sheeting while the CA sets.
Repeat for the lower spar joiner (in the same wing half).
After both joiners are securely dry in one wing half, take the other wing half and set it on its tip.
Again using the servo opening for access, use your thick CA to coat the upper and lower spars and adjacent sheeting.
As quickly as possible, coat the entire root rib with thick CA.
Now, working quickly and smoothly, slide the two halves together in one motion.
Line up the leading and trailing edges while sliding the halves together. Work quickly!
You won’t get two chances!
Wipe off any CA that has bled out the sides of the root ribs to avoid ugly CA lines on the covering.
Section 3: Reinforcing the Wing
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1” wide fiberglass tape strip will be used to reinforce the center section of the wing. Starting on the bottom and at the back of the wing, lay the strip down and use a little THIN CA to tack the end of the strip to the wing.
(It helps to have a fan blowing the fumes away for this next step.)
Next, with the thin CA, glue the reinforcing strip down to the exposed balsa a few inches at a time. Work all the way around the center section making sure that the strip is saturated thoroughly to assure maximum strength.
HINT:
If you haven’t built with CA before, take one of the many plastic bags that come in this ARF kit and place it over your finger to smooth the strip down as you go around the center section with the CA. This will keep the CA from sticking to your finger AND help the strip lay down firmly.
After you’re satisfied with the fiberglass strip installation, glue the covering
back down over the fiberglass cloth for a nice finish.
Section 4:
Installing the Fuselage
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Since the fuselage (also called the “FUSE”) is pre-covered, you may have to look closely to find several of the features already completed for you. Let’s take a look at it…
1) Starting at the front of the fuse, notice the two pre-drilled holes located
between the engine-mount area & the wing cut-out. These are for mounting
the landing gear.
Attach the Landing Gear to the Fuse
Find the two aluminum landing gear legs and hardware package (2 bolts, 4 washers, 2 nuts). Bolt the legs to the fuse as shown in the photo. Do not mount the wheels yet.
Set the fuse on a level table. Place a large triangle against the fuse sides and table to
check for square. If the fuse does not set square on the table, carefully bend one of the
gear legs slightly in or out until the fuse sits squarely on the table.
Section 4:
Installing the Fuselage
__________________________________________________________________(Continued)
2) Just behind and below the wing cutout you will find two cables exiting on each side of the fuse. These are the forward exit points for the pull-pull cables. The cables on the left side of the fuse are for the elevator. The right side are the rudder cables. Moving aft, you will find more cables exiting near the horizontal stab opening – three on the right side and one on the left.
Moving to the back, find the horizontal stabilizer cutout located approximately 3 ½” from the bottom of the fuse. Carefully remove (cut away) the covering from this cutout so that the stab alignment will not be affected by the covering. After removing the excess, firmly iron down the covering in the stab cut-out area to prevent fuel residue from creeping in later.
Section 5:
Aligning the Wing & Stab to the Fuselage (Dry)
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1) Slide the wing into the fuselage and center it.
2) Set the assembly back onto the table. Re-check for square (YES, it’s important!)
3) After the fuse is square, measure from the fuse side to each wing tip to assure that
they are PERFECTLY equal in length.
4) Measure from the trailing edge of each wing tip to the rear edge of the fuselage at
the stab cutout. It must be equal. Do the same for the leading edge.
5) Measure the distance from the bottom of each wing tip to the table. Make sure the
distances are equal.
6) If the wing will not sit squarely to the fuselage (when dry fitting), lightly sand the
fuse opening until the wing will sit square.
NOTE: It is a good idea to mark the wing where it lines up in the fuse with a fine tip marker as a reference when finally gluing the whole thing together. This will take some of the guesswork out of the procedure and calm your nerves as the glue sets and you try to line things up. TEMPORARILY tape the wing to the fuse to hold the alignment while completing the next step.
7) After you are satisfied with the alignment of the wing, measure the horizontal stab
from tip to tip to find the centerline (C/L).
8) After marking the C/L, CAREFULLY
(DO NOT CUT INTO THE WOOD OF THE STAB!!!) cut away the covering on
the top & bottom of the stab, ¼” from each side of the C/L. This will provide a
bare wood area for the glue to bond to when gluing the stab into the fuse.
Section 5:
Aligning the Wing & Stab to the Fuselage (Dry)
__________________________________________________________________(Continued)
9) Slide the horizontal stab into the opening and repeat all measurements.
The Wing & Horizontal Stabilizer must be:
- Perfectly Centered
- Square to the fuselage
- Correctly aligned with each other (tip-to-tip)
- Level to the table
If they are not all of the above, lightly sand the cutouts or adjust until they are!
Once everything is lined up, mark the stab next to the fuselage cutout as an aid in alignment when gluing everything in the next step.
Section 6: Gluing the Wing & Horizontal Stab
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Using THIN CA, tack glue the wing/fuse joint in several spots to keep it from moving when you pick it up to do the final gluing. (No need to move the wing for this step – let the thin CA wick into the joint)
Carefully place the wing/fuse assembly on one of the wingtips. Using medium CA, carefully work all the way around the wing opening gluing the wing to the fuse. (Assure that the glue does not bleed through to the other side and start running down the opposite wing!)
Once you have gone all the way around the first side and it dries, put the assembly on the other wingtip and repeat the process.
Remove the horizontal stab (You DID mark it first, didn’t you?).
Mix a batch of epoxy (15-30 minute is fine) to attach the horizontal stab to the fuse. Coat the cutout of the fuse and also the exposed center area of the horizontal stab (top & bottom) with epoxy. Slide the stab into the cutout from the back of the fuse. With a paper towel damp with alcohol, remove the excess epoxy from the stab/fuse joint. Check your alignment marks and do a visual alignment one last time. Tape in place if needed and set aside to dry.
AS AN ALTERNATIVE:
If you have perfectly marked the stab for alignment onto the fuse, use slow or medium CA to secure the stab. Again, work swiftly and accurately. You don’t get second chances with CA glue! Assure that the horizontal alignment is correct before the CA sets up.
Section 7: Installing the Fuel Tank
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A) Assemble the supplied fuel tank. Look at the drawing included with the tank to see how to assemble the tank. The fuel tank will only fit into the wing with the “flats” of the tank on the top and bottom. Before starting assembly, MARK the tank on the back end to show which way will be UP after installing it. Refer to this “top” mark often while assembling to assure that up is up & down is down! Looking down on top of the tank, the “fill/supply” line should be to the left and the “vent” line should be on the right side of the tank. This way, when you install the tank and line into the wing, the “fill/supply” line will be closest the fuse and the “vent” line will be outboard, closest to the
muffler tap.
Now that the wing is dry, it is time to install the radio & fuel tank.
The fuel tank will go in the right wing (the same side as the engine) and
the receiver & battery will go in the left.
a) Looking at the airplane from the top, place the assembled fuel tank against the centerline (C/L) of the RIGHT wing leading edge (L.E.) and the fuse.
b) Mark the L.E. where the tubes meet the L. E. & drill ¼” holes for the fuel tubing to exit.
c) Line the inboard end of the fuel tank area (against the root rib and the upper and lower sheeting in front of the spar) with ¼”foam rubber.
d) After placing the 12” fuel lines onto the fuel tubes, push the fuel lines through the holes in the L.E & slide the tank into the wing opening. While gently pulling the fuel lines through the L.E., push the tank into position as far as it will go.
e) The tank should be surrounded in foam and secured in the back with a scrap piece of ply to prevent movement.
f) A dab of silicone sealer or epoxy around each fuel line at the wing L.E. will help prevent fuel seepage and help lock-in the tank.
Section 8: Installing Sub-Assemblies
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Bottom of Left Wing Panel Bottom of Right Wing Panel
B) Lay out the radio for installation. Check the fit of your servos into the supplied servo trays. If you use non-standard sized servos, you may need to enlarge the openings or use some filler material (scrap ply) to reduce the size of the openings. The switch & charge plugs may be mounted onto the top left wing sheeting for easy access and charging. DO NOT MOUNT THE SERVOS INTO THE TRAYS UNTIL THE TRAYS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED INTO THE WING! You will need to be able to move the servos around in order to line up the pull-pull cables and other linkages.
C) Prepare the pull-pull cables and hardware. It is best to layout all of the parts of the pull- pull system to get an idea of what is needed for assembly. Look at the drawing of the system: The front of the system starts with the servo output arm.
Section 8: Installing Sub-Assemblies
_____________________________________________________________(Continued)
a) Slide a copper sleeve onto the cable about 5” and loop the cable through the outer hole in the servo arm
b) Push the end of the cable through the sleeve again and slide the sleeve to within ½” or so of the arm. You should have about two inches of free cable.
c)
(this makes 3 times, total) and pull the end of the cable until the loop is tight
against the collar.
d) Crimp the sleeve firmly with a pair of pliers. If you want to be really safe, put a drop of medium CA on the cable at the crimped sleeve to make sure it won’t slide. After you’ve done all four of the servo arm connections (2 on each arm) set them aside until you’ve installed the servos into the wing.
REMINDER: DO NOT ASSEMBLE THE CONTROL SURFACE END OF THE CABLES UNTIL YOU’VE INSTALLED THE RADIO AND ARE READY TO COMPLETE THE PULL-PULL SYSTEM!!!
Section 9: Installing the Wheels to the landing gear
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D) Install the wheels onto the gear.
Find the baggie with the two long screws, 4-nuts & 2 washers.
The main wheels are attached by inserting one of the long screws (axles) through the wheel, then slide a washer on, then screw a nut onto the “axle” until no sloppiness is left in the wheel. The wheel should turn easily; yet not have any free play. Insert the axle through the hole in the gear leg and screw the last nut onto the axle to secure the assembly to each leg.
The tail wheel is secured to the tail wheel wire with the included wheel collar after installation of the steerable tail wheel, or the fixed tail wheel wire.
Section 10: Installing the Radio
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We at Morris Hobbies understand that many modelers have personal preferences for installing the radio components. If you are one of those, skip this step. If not, the following is a general guide for installation.
A) Wrap the receiver & battery in foam before installation. Place the receiver in front of the wing spar in the left wing close to the fuse and the battery outboard as far as possible. This will help balance out the weight of the engine. MAKE SURE YOU CAN ACCESS THE CONNECTOR END OF THE RECEIVER IN ORDER TO PLUG IN THE SERVOS & SWITCH. Fill the Battery/Receiver bay with foam rubber (forward of the spar) to keep these components from moving during wild maneuvering!
B) The receiver antenna may be run out the top or bottom of the wing. The prototype was run out the bottom of the wing & along the bottom of the fuse. SECURE THE ANTENNA WELL TO ASSURE THAT IT DOESN”T GET INTO THE PROPELLOR WHEN YOU START PERFORMING THOSE WILD MANEUVERS!
C) Do NOT install the ON/OFF Switch on the hatch cover, if you ever lost a hatch cover in flight - it would not be good! Install the ON/OFF switch & charge jack into the upper left wing sheeting close to the fuse (to avoid interference with the servo). Plug into the receiver.
D) Find the four ¼”x ¼”x2 5/8” balsa servo tray supports. (NOTE: If you wish to make the servo trays removable, you must substitute basswood or ¼” ply for the balsa supports in order to use screws to mount the servo trays.)
Temporarily place two servos in one of the servo trays. (DON’T screw them in!).
E) Next, slide the tray into the opening and check the height of the servos in the bay. If you are burying the servos, it is best to install the servos as deep in the bay as possible (without touching the wing sheeting).
Section 10: Installing the Radio
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F) If you will have exposed servo arms, align the top of the servo cases with the hatch cover support rails. Using the servos as guides, accurately mark the position of the tray where it will line up against the ribs. The tray should be positioned as close to the wing spar as possible, for weight & balance purposes.
G) Use medium CA to glue in the servo tray on the marks you made.
H) Next, use CA to attach the balsa servo tray supports to the servo tray/ wing rib joint.
I) Lay the servos into the trays (DON”T screw them down yet!) and run the wires to the receiver. Plug them in the assigned slots. In the right wing will be (from inboard working out): THROTTLE, RUDDER, and AILERON. The left wing layout will be: ELEVATOR, AILERON. Check the Radio manufacturers manual for plugging the separate aileron servos into the receiver (they will probably plug into slots 2&6). If you don’t have a radio with mixing functions, you will need a “Y” harness to connect the two aileron servos.
J) The THROTTLE servo should be as close to the fuse as possible while still having access to the servo arm screw and allowing full throw of the arm. NOTE: Obviously you haven’t installed the engine or throttle control rod yet. This will come LAST as an aid in balancing the plane.
K) The AILERON servos should be placed equi-distant from the fuselage as far outboard in the trays as practical.
L) The RUDDER & ELEVATOR servos should be somewhat in-line with the exit angle of the pull-pull cables. This will minimize any binding of the cables. (See the Pull-Pull picture on the next page)
M) After you are satisfied with the layout of the servos, secure them to the trays per the manufacturers recommendation.
Section 10: Installing the Radio
________________________________________________________________(Continued)
A Typical “In the wing” set-up
Look at the photos – you may need to modify your servo hatches for an installation exactly like this by drilling a 5/8” holes in the hatch covers where the output shafts exit. We used pieces of heavy paper as templates to accurately determine where our holes were to be placed
AFTER installing the servos.
Section 11: Installing the Control Surface
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PREPARE THE THINGS FOR INSTALLATION: Fold each of the hinges in half (across the slot) & mark the center of the hinge with a pen. This will be your reference point to assure that the hinge is centered in the control surfaces and not pushed back into a cutout. If the hinges present a problem with centering when you attempt to push the control surface onto it’s mating flying surface, simply push a T-pin through the hinge at the center line and leave it until you are ready to glue the hinge
a) Slide a hinge halfway into each pre-cut slot in the control surfaces. The C/L mark should be slightly showing. The number of hinges in each surface is as follows:
Ailerons – 5-ea side (10 total)
Elevator – 3-ea side (6 total)
Rudder – 3 (Plus the Brass hinge if you choose to use a steerable tail wheel or 4 if you have a fixed tail wheel assembly)
b) Starting with the Elevator, line up the hinges to the pre-cut slots in the horizontal stab and push the elevator against the stab. ASSURE that you can still see the centerline marks of the hinges. If you find it difficult to keep the hinges centered, it may be helpful to push a “T”-pin through the hinge at the centerline. This will keep it from pushing in too deep one way or another. The pins can also be helpful in spacing the control surface from the stab. It assures a very slight gap.
c) Once you are happy with the hinge alignment (Don’t forget to align the elevator ends with the stab ends), move the elevator to its maximum downward deflection (approximately 60°) and slowly apply 3 or 4 drops of THIN CA to the top of each hinge. DO NOT USE CA ACCELERATOR ON THE HINGES!!! The idea is to allow the thin CA to wick into each hinge and bond the hinge to the balsa in the stab & elevator. Move the elevator to its maximum upward deflection & place 3 or 4 drops on the bottom of each hinge. Start working the elevator up & down to keep the CA from binding the covering. Do not just glue the hinges and leave them. You may end up with VERY stiff control surfaces. 50 to 60 deflections will help “break-in” the hinges. Do not pull or over-deflect the surfaces during this time, just try to work them up & down.
Section 11: Installing the Control Surface
________________________________________________________________(Continued)
d) Repeat the process for the Ailerons. (You might wait until you’ve completed the pull-pull system before you install the ailerons – you will have more room to maneuver the airplane.)
e) A NOTE ABOUT THE RUDDER: If you have chosen to go with a fixed tailwheel, it will not be necessary to install the brass hinge/ tailwheel wire assembly. You must install an extra CA type hinge into the slot that the brass hinge would otherwise fit into in order to assure the integrity of the rudder hinges. (You will need to slot the rudder to accept the extra CA hinge.) If you choose the steerable tailwheel, clean the wire and brass hinge with isopropyl alcohol or other suitable cleaner before installing it. Add a drop of oil to the wire where it gets wrapped by the brass hinge to prevent the wire and hinge from getting glued together. Slide the 3 CA hinges into the rudder at this time. Force 15 minute epoxy into the hole in the rudder (but not the hinge cutout) that the wire slides into, and also into the slot in the fuse where the brass hinge will go. (A toothpick or scrap piece of 2/56-control rod is useful for this) Clean the excess epoxy from these areas before installing the tailwheel hinge. Slide the brass hinge/ tailwheel wire assembly into the fuselage slot.
Use great caution to avoid gluing the brass hinge to the wire.
Align the hinges in the rudder to the vertical stab and the tailwheel wire to the rudder hole and push the rudder against the stab.Fully deflect the rudder both directions (it should be able to hit the elevators each way) and CA the hinges like you did for the other control surfaces.
Section 12: Completing the Pull-Pull System
A) First, turn on the radio (transmitter & receiver) and center all of the trims. Use the longest Servo Output Arms that come with your system (We use the Du-Bro Super Servo Arms – They are strong & long). Use the outer holes. This will give maximum deflection (YES, you will want it, eventually!). Place the servo arm on the elevator servo so that it is PERPENDICULAR to the angle of the pull-pull cables. Don’t screw it down yet – you will make adjustments.
See picture for example of installation angle.
B) Connect the cables onto the outer holes of the servo arm and slide
the pull-pull cables through the fuse (from the front holes in the fuse).
IF YOU DON”T MAKE REMOVEABLE CABLES, MAKE SURE YOU SLIDE THE CABLES THROUGH THE SERVO HATCHES BEFORE YOU SLIDE THE CABLES THROUGH THE FUSE!!!
Use Masking Tape or two balsa sticks taped across the control surface / flying surface to keep the control surface from moving during this step – it will prevent much aggravation!
C) Install the control horns onto the control surfaces. Notice the exit angle of the cables from the fuselage and line up the control horns so that they are in line with that angle. The elevator horns will be approximately ¾” from the fuse side. The holes in the control horns (not the mounting pads) must line up with the LEADING EDGE OF THE CONTROL SURFACE!!! After determining the proper placement & angle of the control horns, cut the covering away from each mount area (both sides of the control surface) and use thin CA to harden each of the mounting pads.
The horns will be screwed together back-to-back on the elevator and rudder.
Section 12: Completing the Pull-Pull System (Continued)
D) Screw a nut onto each rigging coupler (4 total) and then screw the couplers onto the clevises (make certain that the couplers have an equal number of threads showing on each side of the clevis - see the pull-pull drawing).
E) Attach the clevises onto the control horns of the elevator and rudder at the outer hole (or whichever hole lines up best with the exit angle of the cable).
F) ASSURE THAT THE SERVO ARM DOES NOT MOVE AT THIS POINT!!!!!
Slide a sleeve onto a pull-pull cable and then slide the cable through the rigging coupler. Pull the cable as tight as possible without moving the servo arm.
Now complete the assembly just like you did for the front end of the system.
Repeat the process for each of the other three cables.
After both are complete, check the motion of the control surfaces.
Make sure the arms are at the correct angle to give equal throws, and adjust the tension of the cables so that there is no “slop” in the control surfaces.
Turn off the radio.
Section 13: Completing the Control Hook-Ups
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To hook up the ailerons, lay a 2-56 rod (with clevis screwed so that threads show on both sides of the threaded portion) on the bottom of the wing from the servo output arm to the aileron.
1) Making certain that the rod is perpendicular to the wing trailing edge, mark the
centerline for the control horn on the aileron.
2) Line the holes of the control horn up with the L.E. of the ailerons.
3) Outline the area that the horn will screw to, cut away the covering & use thin CA
to harden the pad area on the top & bottom of the ailerons.
4) At this point, assure that the ailerons are at “0” degrees of incidence.
5) After measuring the length from the holes of the control horn to the outer hole of
the servo arm, make a “Z” bend in the rods and connect the rods to the servos and
ailerons.
6) Turn the radio back on and look at the ailerons………..
Looking at them from the back, are they exactly lined up with each other?
From the side are they still at 0 degrees of incidence?
If the control surfaces are not set up correctly, it will affect the way that the whole airplane performs.
Section 14: Installing the Engine and Balancing
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You’ve waited to mount the engine until now for a reason!
BALANCE!!!
1) Find the baggie with the engine mounting hardware. It will have 4ea bolts, nuts and
washers and 2ea mount plates. Center the engine on the hardwood rails (you MAY
have to carve away some of the rails for the engine to sit flush. If you do, don’t forget
to RE-FUELPROOF the engine bearers with CA or epoxy) using a rubber band, secure
the engine temporarily.
2) Screw a small Eyehook into the top of the fuselage at the Center of Gravity 4.5” back from the leading edge of the wing to balance the aircraft both fore & aft, and side-to-side.
3) Move the engine fore-or-aft to adjust the C.G. and move the receiver battery around to balance the plane tip-to-tip. Remember to hook up the exhaust/tuned silencer… for balancing.
4) After you have satisfactorily balanced the plane, finish mounting the engine by
marking & drilling the four holes into the mount beams and installing the screws and
mount plates.
Section 15:
Installing the Throttle Pushrod & Housing
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You will have a couple of options for installing the throttle pushrod housing.
First, if you have installed the servos so that the arms are exposed, it is simply a matter of cutting the housing to length (about 3 inches less than the distance between the throttle arm and the servo), securing the housing to the fuselage between the engine and the servo, and attaching the pushrod links to the servo and engine throttle arms.
OR…
If you have a long (12”) 3/16” drill and have installed your servos so that the arms are below the servo hatches, look from the front of the engine at the throttle arm and make a mental note of where the throttle servo is inside of the fuselage. Mark the leading edge of the wing where the housing should exit. Using the long drill from the front of the airplane, drill through the leading edge (or sheeting, whichever lines up) into the wing.
CAUTION!
DO NOT DRILL INTO THE FUEL TANK WHEN ACCOMPLISHING THIS STEP!!!
Stop drilling when you know you are through the balsa leading edge!!!
(You can use the pushrod housing to work around the foam in the tank compartment and
through to the servo area.)
Section 16: Control Throw Recommendations
The following control throw recommendations offer positive response and are a good place to begin setting up the aircraft. After you have become familiar with the flight characteristics of this model, adjust the throws to suit your flying style.
Aileron 1” Up, 1” Down 2” Up, 2” Down
Elevator ¾” Up, ¾” Down 1 ½” Up, 1 ½” Down
Rudder 1 ½” Right, 1 ½” Left 3” Right, 3” Left
Flaparon Mixing 50% 50%
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Section 17: Flying
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If I could give one piece of advice about flying, it would be to keep the model flying slow. With a powerful engine this model will achieve great speeds. In fact, if you get it going to fast, flutter will destroy it in the air. Never use high throttle settings except for vertical maneuvers, and then only for brief periods of time.
Section 18: Programming Guide
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4 pack of Morris Fun Shown above – Clockwise from Top
“Morris The Knife”, Su-do-Khoi, BalsaNOVA, and TopCap